Emiliano's Café Celebrates 25 Years

Sunday, 01 November 2009 19:00

Emiliano’s Cafe has served traditional Latin dishes fused with an assortment of international influences for the past 25 years. From paella to Cuban sandwiches to an array of tapas, the restaurant has grown into a Downtown Gainesville landmark after starting as a tiny bakery with a single case of pastries.

By Ashley Spencer

WHAT GAINESVILLE WANTS

Originally from Puerto Rico, Wanda de Paz-Ibanez and her husband, Jorge, were finishing up their degrees at the University of California Santa Barbara in 1981 when Jorge’s love of baking propelled the couple to follow more culinary pursuits. After learning the ropes at a summer apprenticeship in a local bakery, the Ibanezes packed up their two young children, Diego and Rebecca, and moved to Gainesville to start a bakery of their own.

Upon arriving, they opened Emiliano’s Bakery, named after Wanda’s grandfather, a baker in their hometown of Jayuya. The original location was on West University Avenue, in a storefront into which Reggae Shack Café recently expanded. It offered a variety of natural, whole-grain breads and baked goods. It wasn’t long, however, before they realized Gainesville’s population had something else in mind.

“When we opened, we discovered that what the town really wanted was a Latin bakery,” Wanda says. So they adjusted their definition of what Emiliano’s would be and have continued to evolve ever since. In 1984, they decided to move to a bigger space and become a full-fledged café.

When the current spot at 7 SE First Ave. opened its doors on Nov. 11, 1984, it was like moving into a ghost town downtown. There was no Sun Center or Union Street Station, and the building where Emiliano’s was located had been boarded up for 15 years.

“There were no bricks, no trees, no lampposts,” Wanda recalls. “People said, ‘Are you crazy? Why would you go downtown? You need to go to a strip mall.’”

But Wanda and Jorge’s experiences in New York, California and Puerto Rico led them to dream of having a street café where people could sit outside and linger—an atmosphere they couldn’t achieve in a strip mall. Twenty-five years later, what might have seemed like an ill-advised investment to some is going stronger than ever.

ALL IN THE FAMILY

To this day, Emiliano’s remains truly a family affair, currently run by Wanda and her son, Diego Ibanez, with Wanda’s sister Ali de Paz serving as head chef. In fact, of Wanda’s seven siblings, only one has not been involved with the restaurant at some point. Even the oversized artwork lining the walls was created by Jorge, now director of the digital media department at Santa Fe College.

The family element at times makes for a challenge.

“Being a family business is what makes Emiliano’s special and strong and able to endure. At the same time, the biggest challenges in managing the business come from separating business from family,” Wanda says. “I have to keep track of when our discussions have to do with business and when it’s just ‘Mom’ and Diego talking.”

By extension, the Ibanezes seem to approach the Gainesville community with the same embracing family attitude. The restaurant sponsors the Hippodrome Theatre, Samuel P. Harn Museum of Art and Dance Alive National Ballet, among others, and retains strong ties with the University of Florida. UF philosophy professor Robert D’Amico doubles as resident piano player when Emiliano’s hosts live jazz sessions every Monday and Wednesday night.

STAYING FRESH

In the past few years, Emiliano’s has undergone several renovations, including the addition of a full bar and an expanded tapas menu.

“The secret to our success is being very dynamic, constantly changing, striving to do something new,” Diego says. “But the warmth and welcome is still here.”

Customers seem to agree, as those who once celebrated their graduation dinners at Emiliano’s are now coming back to do the same on their childrens’ big day.

FLAVORFUL FOOD

You likely won’t be disappointed by the food options at Emiliano’s, whether you’re in the mood for an old favorite or something new. While the all-time biggest seller is their Cuban Sandwich, Wanda recommends the paella or one of the restaurant’s biggest draws, Chef Ali’s ever-changing specials. She visits Latin, Asian and farmers markets for inspiration, then selects the freshest ingredients to prepare using her “gift for flavor.” Always at the core of her international cuisine is her family’s soul food.

“The great flavors that my mom and grandmother mixed up are always closest to my heart, so I try to recreate some of what we had on our kitchen table, just on a little bigger scale,” Chef Ali explains.

*For its 25th anniversary celebration, Emiliano’s has planned a variety of events throughout the month, so check their web site, emilianoscafe.com, or follow INsite on Twitter for updates.